Gemstone jewellery is one of the oldest and most fascinating forms of art and culture in human history. It reflects the beliefs, values, and aesthetics of different civilizations and eras. In this blog post, we will focus on the history of gemstone jewellery in ancient Greece, from the Mycenaean period to the Hellenistic period.
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Mycenaean period
The Mycenaean period in Greece lasted from about 1600 to 1100 BCE. It was a time of political and military expansion, as well as cultural and artistic achievements. The Mycenaeans were influenced by the Minoans, who lived on the island of Crete and had a sophisticated civilization based on trade and maritime power. The Mycenaeans adopted many aspects of Minoan culture, including their jewellery making skills.
The Mycenaeans used gold and gems in jewellery, as well as other materials such as ivory, glass, faience, and enamel. They produced beads shaped as shells, animals, flowers, and geometric patterns. They also made pendants, rings, bracelets, diadems, and earrings. Some of their jewellery was inspired by nature, such as the famous gold bee pendant from Malia. Other pieces were influenced by religion or mythology, such as the gold signet ring from Tiryns that depicts a goddess with two lions
The Mycenaeans also used gemstones for their symbolic or magical properties. They believed that certain stones had healing or protective powers, or could enhance certain qualities or emotions. For example, they used amethysts for sobriety, pearls for purity, and emeralds for love.
Geometric period
The Geometric period in Greece lasted from about 1100 to 700 BCE. It was a time of social and political changes, as well as artistic innovations. The Geometric period is named after the geometric motifs that dominated the art and design of this era. These motifs included circles, triangles, squares, spirals, meanders, and swastikas.
The Geometric period saw a decline in the use of gold and gems in jewellery, due to the scarcity and cost of these materials. Instead, the Greeks used more iron and bronze, as well as amber, coral, bone, and wood. They also used glass beads that were imported from Egypt or Mesopotamia. The jewellery was simpler and more austere than the Mycenaean jewellery, but still had some decorative elements such as granulation (tiny balls of metal), filigree (thin wires of metal), and repoussé (hammered relief).
The Geometric period also saw a rise in the use of jewellery as a form of personal expression and identity. The Greeks wore jewellery to indicate their gender, age, status, or affiliation. For example, men wore fibulae (brooches) to fasten their cloaks or tunics; women wore necklaces, bracelets, earrings, and hair ornaments; children wore amulets or charms to ward off evil; warriors wore torcs (neck rings) or bracelets to show their strength or bravery; and aristocrats wore diadems or crowns to show their authority or prestige.
Archaic period
The Archaic period in Greece lasted from about 700 to 480 BCE. It was a time of cultural and political flourishing, as well as artistic diversity. The Archaic period is known for the emergence of democracy, philosophy, literature, and sculpture in Greece. It is also known for the expansion of trade and colonization in the Mediterranean and beyond.
The Archaic period saw a revival of gold and gems in jewellery, as well as a variety of styles and techniques. The Greeks imported or mined many types of gemstones, such as turquoise, lapis lazuli, carnelian, agate, amethyst, and garnet. They also developed new ways of cutting and polishing gemstones, such as cabochon (smooth dome), intaglio (engraved), and cameo (carved relief). They also experimented with different settings and combinations of gemstones, such as bezel (surrounding rim), cluster (grouped together), and mosaic (arranged in patterns).
The Archaic period also saw a diversity of influences and motifs in jewellery. Some of the influences came from other cultures, such as Egypt, Mesopotamia, Persia, and Phoenicia. Some of the motifs came from nature, such as leaves, flowers, fruits, and animals. Some of the motifs came from religion or mythology, such as gods, goddesses, heroes, monsters, and symbols. Check out more articles about jewellery sybolism and beliefs here: https://wholesalejewelleryuk.com/blogs/jewellery-benifits
Classical period
The Classical period in Greece lasted from about 480 to 323 BCE. It was a time of artistic and intellectual excellence, as well as political and military achievements. The Classical period is marked by the Persian Wars, the Peloponnesian War, the rise and fall of Athens, and the conquests of Alexander the Great. It is also marked by the development of drama, history, mathematics, science, and architecture in Greece. It is considered the golden age of Greek art and culture.
The Classical period saw a refinement and elegance in jewellery, as well as a balance and harmony of form and function. The Greeks used gold and gems in jewellery, but in a more subtle and sophisticated way than before. They favoured simple and graceful shapes, such as circles, ovals, spheres, and cylinders. They also favoured delicate and intricate designs, such as granulation, filigree, repoussé, and enamel.
The Classical period also saw a continuity and variation of influences and motifs in jewellery. Some of the influences came from the same cultures as before, but with more adaptation and integration. Some of the motifs came from the same sources as before, but with more realism and expression. Some of the motifs also came from new sources, such as coins, medals, portraits, and scenes.
Hellenistic period
The Hellenistic period in Greece lasted from about 323 to 31 BCE. It was a time of cultural and artistic diversity and diffusion, as well as political and social changes. The Hellenistic period is marked by the death of Alexander the Great, the division of his empire into three kingdoms (Macedonia, Egypt, and Syria), the rise of Rome, and the end of Greek independence. It is also marked by the spread of Greek culture and language to other regions and peoples, such as Asia Minor, Persia, India, and Egypt.
The Hellenistic period saw a richness and extravagance in jewellery, as well as a variety and experimentation of styles and techniques. The Greeks used gold and gems in jewellery, but in a more lavish and elaborate way than before. They favoured complex and ornate shapes, such as spirals, loops, knots, and rosettes. They also favoured colourful and dazzling designs, such as polychrome enamel, glass paste, and multi coloured gemstones.
The Hellenistic period also saw a diversity and fusion of influences and motifs in jewellery. Some of the influences came from the same cultures as before, but with more exchange and interaction. Some of the influences also came from new cultures, such as Celtic, Scythian, Etruscan, and Roman. Some of the motifs came from the same sources as before, but with more variety and innovation. Some of the motifs also came from new sources, such as astrological signs, erotic scenes, and theatrical masks.
Conclusion
Gemstone jewellery is a rich and fascinating aspect of Greek history and culture. It reveals the beliefs, values, and aesthetics of different periods and eras. It also showcases the skills, creativity, and innovation of Greek artisans and craftsmen. Gemstone jewellery is not only a way to adorn oneself, but also a way to connect with the past and present.
I hope you enjoyed this blog post on the history of gemstone jewellery in ancient Greece. If you want to learn more about gemstones, you can visit our 'Everything About Gemstones' blog section on our website.
You can also check out some of the beautiful and unique gemstone jewellery pieces we have for sale on our collections page, at wholesale trade prices here.
Thank you for reading and happy shopping! 😊